chasing rabbits stateside

Here I am in Washington DC, after about an hours sleep I needed coffee, lots of it and a shower, I'm almost human again! (You can tell I'm adapting to my surroundings, as I got off the bus this morning I found myself muttering-I'm English don't forget, I'd never shout-'get outta my fuckin way ya idiot' and attempted to shove someone out of the way with my backpack - I'm so proud of myself !!!!!!)

I won't talk about DC yet, instead my visit to Uncle Johnny's - Tennessee:

My first Greyhound ride was relatively uneventful, they're basic, uncomfortable and full of loud people (until they exhaust themselves and the lull of the bus sends them to sleep). It seems the trick to Greyhound travel is anonymity, be as scruffy as possible, avoid all eye contact and pretend to be asleep when you pull into stations, worked for me. I find it amusing that a 'refreshment stop' consists of pulling up at a Burger King or McDonalds, no wonder some of the passengers can hardly fit into their seats - I assume they travel this way regularly !

I was met a Johnston City by Charlotte, wife of Uncle Johnny, a friendly face, she filled me in on our destination as we rattled along the highway. I expected to be in awe of the mountains but I have to say they have nothing on the Lake District in the UK. Back home as I head north from my home into the Lake's and the scenery changes I get goose bumps, they are such poweful awe-inspiring craggy monsters, here its much gentler. I was staying in the cutest of cabins (photos to follow - eventually-I promise), of course it houses the obligatory tv, although it only received two channels and I knew better than to expect to get 'Showtime' and receive my fill of sunday night L Word! Not that TV was what this bit of the Trip was about, so it remained off .... most of the time.

On my first night I was talked into going to the 'Rivers Edge', a BBQ restaurant over looking the Devil's Looking Glass on the Nolichucky River, where if it stands still for long enough they stick it over flames and transfer it to your plate. It would be very difficult to be vegetarian on this trip. The live music was a mixture of Apalachian/country and blue grass. Debbie a 'true mountain woman and hill billy' to quote her partner Skip, an ex art dealer ( who left the industry for some of the same reasons I left the theatre)filled me in on the area and the ways of the Apalachian Trail. What I hadn't realised until I got here was that I was to be surrounded by true hikers, most of them spending 6 months walking 2,100 miles. I'm impressed at what they are doing, I know I don't have it in me. I was told about 'Trail Magic', the generosity that can be found on the Trail. For example, there are a group of people who drove a camper van to the top of one of the hills, set up tents, a fire, and provided for tired and hungry walkers when they got to that point at no charge.

My favourite tale of the night was about Erwin, the small town a mile away from the hostel (not quite 'blink and you'll miss it' but not far off. Apparently its famous for being the town that hung an elephant ! The circus was in town and the elephant trampled someone to death (it had done this before so had done quite well to get that far). They held a trial - I'm not kidding - and the elephant was found guilty so they decided to hang it from a crane. First time round they tried using chains, but they snapped and the elephant fell, breaking all its legs, second time round cable of some kind was used and that worked. Anyone got the number for the RSPCA ?

Next day I 'slack packed' 11 miles of the trail (so called because you're a 'slacker' for getting a lift to a certain point and then walking back, I love it, I'm going to take the phrase back to England). I was nervous at having no map, compass, first aid kit, waterproofs etc etc, as it turns out I didn't need them. The trail is so well marked you'd have to be an idiot not to be able to figure out where you were going. I was dropped off at Spivey Gap by Tongue Tied (everyone gets Trail names) and spent the day on a wooded path, gaining comments about my speed when I returned (4 and a half hours, although I wasn't that impressed with myself, it was an easy route).

All of the people I've met have been fantastic. Sweet Sixteen is a fabulous 62 year old woman with silver hair and a glint in her eyes. She'd planned on walking for only a month and being picked up from Uncle Johnny's by her husband, but she was enjoying it so much she was going to keep going for another month. Ellie and Libby filled me in on the gruesome, personal conversations that go on between strangers who are sharing the trail for periods of time (apparently bonding occurs quite quickly when discussing toilet activities !). I was told about Dutchman who set off on the AT with a 105lb pack full of tinned goods. It rained, everything got wet and the labels fell off. Everytime he ate he had to guess what he would be having for dinner ! Fortunately some trail magic folk took pity on him and drove some of his tins further up the route for him. There are people with name such as, Mudbutt/Strider/thirsty/Slip & Slide/Catfish/Wookie. All had interesting tales and made sitting out on the deck a great experience as people stopped by for a chat and a drink.

I spent more time chatting to Skip and Debbie and ended up with my first political discussion, lets just say Skip is as far right as I am left !!! I had to do an awful lot of head nodding and 'ah-ha'ing. I didn't see what could be gained from getting rattled and attempting to thump an ex-military man! He's actually a really nice guy, we're just miles apart on the political spectrum. The most memorable question was 'are you a feminist by any chance?' erm... lets think about that one. There's a definate sense of 'America is in the right no matter what and everyone else should thank us'. I'm sorry ? Can we go over that again ?

I have found it quite unnerving to be away from e-mail and voice-mail. One of the highlights of leaving the UK was switching my mobile off and leaving it in a drawer. But not even having e-mail was quite difficult to cope with, didn't think I'd be like that. I'm rather disappointed in myself !

Hey Annika, I met another Honda Element owner - we have been discussing Element stories, betcha proud !!!

posted by KP @ 5:54 PM