chasing rabbits stateside
Tuesday, June 28, 2005
These 2 events are now 2 of the highlights of my trip. It was fantastic to take part in such an iconic part of gay celebrations. To be able to say that I was Dyke on a Bike at San Francisco's Gay Pride march is incredible.
I owe a huge thanks to Maxine and Sheila who allowed me to ride with them, and to Billie, Kate, Jeanette, Jude and Donna who helped make my Pride so much fun.
line dancing at Pride
I spent some time exploring the different stages and groups, like this, the country and western area. It was fabulous to see grizzly old cowboys dancing together.
Bikers back
Donna's wonderful sticker. As we were wandering around the main celebration area a woman called Donna over and pointed the sticker out to her friend and said; " See Rita, God doesn't hate you".
Max and Lesley
I didn't see Maxine and Lesley until the very end. Max is an experienced 'Dyke on a Bike' and was right when she told me it would be an incredibly memorable experience.
Jeanette, Jude and Donna
The biker 'pack' I became an honourary member of for the day. Thank you ladies, I had a ball. xx
'get em out' !!!
The Dykes on Bikes were followed by (at a guess) a couple of thousand women, many carrying banners, not all of them fully clothed! This was a 'safe space/event' and everyone was free to express themselves as they wished, many made the most of this opportunity to 'be themselves'.
On saturday the Dyke March took place. Live music and speakers appeared on a stage in Delores Park to a crowd of thousands made up of predomianantly gay women. At 7pm the Dyke March set off around the Mission district and made its way to Castro. The March is led by a huge group of 'Dykes on Bikes', in this case approximately 200 bikes led the march and I WAS ON ONE OF THEM!!!! Maxine, my host for the week, had invited me to be her B.O.B (Bitch on Back. It was a fantastic experience. Crowds of people lined the pavements to cheer us on, everyone was so supportive and I rode around the route with a huge grin on my face. I was over the moon and am SO greatful to Maxine (who, by the way, has been a wonderful host, although now I would say a great friend).
Saturday, June 25, 2005
Friday, June 24, 2005
Today I caught an episode of Keeping Up Appearances and Are You Being Served (see, I'm not a culture snob really, I just pretend to be) it had a similar effect. People have been asking me what I miss about home, it's turning out to be the arts, in its various forms.
Edale
For those of you who have met me on my travels, this is the part of the world I come from. Lucky eh?!!
Thursday, June 23, 2005
Fun by the river
This was the ideal spot for small children, and a group of adults with a Peter Pan approach !
I didn't shower for 3 days and lived in the same clothes, it was great to not have to care about that kind of thing, although the shower I took back at Linda's was heavenly!
This was Adrian's first camping trip and he seemed to enjoy it. He is a very bright, lively child and it was lovely to hang out with him, although it did remind me how much I miss Julian ! On saturday we were joined by their friend Eric and his 2 year old daughter Seetlali (I'm not sure on the spelling - sorry), she is the most delightful little girl with the cutest smile, and absolutely no fear at all, she was forever running around the site and couldn't play in the river without sitting in it!
I didn't get the chance to explore downtown Santa Cruz, but from the bit I saw it looks lovely and I would really like to return and see more of it.
I was sad to leave them but we parted with a comment about camping together in Yosemite, a lovely thought, especially as I have every intention of coming back and spending more time in that area anyway.
Tuesday, June 21, 2005
Happy Birthday John (my Dallas friend), hope you have a fabulous day, I'll buy you a birthday drink in Cape Cod.
Helen, the Las Vegas Lady (!). Happy Birthday chuck, celebrate in style. I hope all the travelling is still going well.
Vanessa and Lucy, all the best in your new home. I'll be thinking of you lugging boxes around in the heat ! I hope you are very happy there and that the spare bed is comfortable !!!!!!
The finished piece, I love it.
How cool is this huh ? I am SO pleased and am currently looking after it like my foot is made of crystal !
After a morning in the Pride office I made my way to Black and Blue Tattoo, home of Idexa, who was to scar me for life !!!! I was worried that the mosquito bites that formed a ring around each ankle would cause a problem. Idexa was worried that I wouldn't like the design as this was outside her usual style of work and nearly cancelled - what a pair !! I loved the design and the bites weren't a problem. Idexa is a wonderful, fun, interesting, talented woman, we chatted throughout much of the 3 and a half hour process, but also instinctively knew when the other needed to focus and couldn't chat for a little while. To say it wasn't painful at moments would be lying, although it is better to describe it as an intense sensation than just 'pain' ( and one I quite like in a bizarre way). Although there was one square centimetre where whenever she ventured in I was about ready to hit the roof. Both of us were kind of sad when the work was complete and we were both on a high. I loved the finished work and Idexa was so pleased with the experience she is considering branching out into a new area of design. I have every intention of returning so she can do more work for me. That night I went to sleep with my bandaged foot in the air, trying to figure out how I was going to look after it on a camping trip just outide Santa Cruz - my following days adventures.....
The darkest dot is Alcatraz!
I took this out of the bus window as I returned from Yosemite and crossed the Bay Bridge over to SF. Despite being taken through the glass of the window I'm quite pleased with it !
See where those trees go up - thats where I had to go, aaaaah!!
Yes it was as steep as it looks.
Yes it was as hot as it looks.
Yes it was bloody hard work.
Lunch time !!!!
This was my lunchtime view, and that's my sandwich just to prove it ! The squirrels are running off just out of shot!
I can't believe I'm here !!!!
Yosemite National Park, beautiful. This picture was taken part way up the trail to Upper Yosemite Fall.
The fabulous Women's Centre
I was walking down Valencia and I saw a head appear over the top of a building, I had to go and check it out and this is what I found. It's stunning.
Check out the detail !
Earlier I mentioned the amazing murals in the Mission District of San Francisco, well I wasn't kidding. Look at this stuff its incredible.
I thought that Cathedral Rocks, Sedona, was as good as it got, then I went to Yosemite ! Monday I decided to hike up the Misty Trail to Vernal Fall and Nevada Fall. Waiting for the shuttle bus from the Valley Visitor Centre to the start of the trail was like waiting for a first date that you're pretty confident about !! You're sure it will go well, you have plenty in common, you're attracted to one another, but there is still a part of you that is nervous that it won't go to plan and you'll be disappointed in some way. I know I sound crazy but I was like a 16 year old who couldn't wait to go but was holding back a bit incase the reality dashed the dreams !....... The date went great ! The views were spectacular, the sun shone, literally dozens of rainbows appeared all the way up the falls. I was soaked to the skin at Vernall Falls and the terrain changed regularly as I continued on my way up to Nevada Fall constantly surprising me with more flowers, more challenges underfoot(how people can get to that point and not continue to Nevada Fall I'll never know, actually the 'American waistline' might have something to do with it!). Finally at the top and ready for lunch I had the kind of view to accompany my meal break that would make cardboard taste good. Cheeky squirrels ran, bounced and skittered (I made that word up - I think - but it sounds appropriate !) across the huge flat rocks that people sun bathed on. Two scampered around me and ran off - they looked like cartoon characters and I could imagine them chunnering to one another "huh, nothing worth nicking there, processed cheese, pah, where's the organic stuff...lets try this lot" (we have posh squirrels in Derbyshire!). I reluctantly made my way down , I took the John Muir Trailon the basis that I perfer to work a circular route instead of repeating my footsteps. It was easier and much less interesting, but the views continued to be worthy of dozens of photos.
Yosemite Bug Hostel is clean, fun. the food excellent and not you're usual Hostel fayre (steak/salmon/gooey chocolate cake etc etc). My room mates were chatty and friendly. My only complaint is that some of the staff didn't seem to know their 'arse from their elbow', but the chirpy kitchen staff more than made up for it.
Saturday, June 11, 2005
After lunch I made my way to my home for the week. I'm staying in the lovely apartment of Valerie and Ketan, their 6 year old daughter Kaliah and the slighty deranged if incredibly cute cat Shanti. The balcony/decking overlooks much of the city and my sleeping quarters are my idea of heaven (a futon - great for my bad back - I know, I sound about 70 - next to huge 'patio' windows - I much prefer allowing the sun to wake me, its less of a shock to the system). They are the same age as me, great fun, relaxed and very welcoming. Valerie directed me to the finest burritos at Poncho Villa and after lunch I met Idexa the tattooist based at Black and Blue who will be doing my tattoo next week. We have now met twice and although I have not seen a design I have absolute faith in her. She's a very sweet German woman who has a fabulous portfolio of work (I will post photos of the whole messy bloody process as soon as I can - just to warn you !!!)
The area I'm staying in, the Mission district, is a vibrant colourful area. There is a large hispanic population and the stores reflect this. There is also a huge mural project/culture here. The most amazing art work, some done by experienced artists, some by children or community groups, can be found all over the place. I have taken dozens of photos and will blog them as soon as I can. The work just blows me away. Wait until you see pictures of the Womens Centre - WOW.
I have started working on San Francisco Pride. I visited the staff as soon as I arrived and then agreed to do a couple of days work this week. It is a huge event, I mean massive, beyond anything we have in the UK. I am aware that I am in for a huge shock on the 25th and 26th when I see it all take place. I've been given a lot of responsibility, which is fine, I get bored easily and would rather be busy and under pressure, it will also be an incredible experience. I saw the site plans today and we started discussing the whole assembly process, building of the stage, delivery of equipment, who's responsible for what. I figure that I'm going to need a couple of days to recover when its all over. There are no huge stars in attendance, well by my reckoning and knowledge, not being from here (the headliners are En Vogue, I hadn't realised they were still going , BETTY, who did the theme music for the L Word, Third Eye Blind, I've no idea, and Kimberley Locke, an American Idol contestant), some of the non-headliners look pretty cool though. It will be such a fabulous event, I'm incredibly excited and promise to take lots of photos. I have a production meeting all day on saturday which will be pretty intense I'm sure. Its never dull on KP's travels !!!
Maxine, who I met through the Craigslist website ('Blog' isn't allowing me to add links at the mo - bugger - will have to do that later), met me after 'work' on thursday. She took me on a driving tour of the city. What an amazing place, there are so many different neighbourhoods, all full of their own unique personality, non have become ghettoised, they are back to back with one another and it makes for a fascinating place to explore. We drove over the Golden Gate Bridge, through the Golden Gate Park, slowed down as we went past the strip clubs (!!!!!),through Chinatown (the most interesting, intriguing, colourful,densely packed one I have seen, drove down streets so steep that as you went over the crest you couldn't see the road in front of you -like driving off a cliff, made our way through the fog to highest part of the city, got hit by another car ....... no kidding, it kind of bounced off the passenger side , maxine ; "are you ok .... good, its like bumper cars in this city", both cars drove off !!!! She's a wonderful tour guide, a mid westerner originally she is extremely passionate about her new home. She also offered to have me on the back of her motorbike as she takes part in the Pride March as part of Dykes on Bikes (imagine ..... 600 motorbikes, all ridden by women, some topless - heh heh - leading the biggest Pride parade in the world) , sadly I will be hard at work on the main stage at that point, but how amazing would that have been !!!
I met up with Fi (my friend from Scotland - she worked with Gwen and I at the Pod), crepes and beer were involved, I was the only one piggish enough to have dessert, coconut, ice-cream and rum crepe, I wasn't expecting the waitress to set it on fire !!! We happened across some great live music, had some more beers and then headed back to her place. She is interning for a puppet company. The office, rehearsal and living space is in the same building, the sleeping quarters are literally little cells up ladders in the rehearsal space. Its bizarre. It was wonderful to spend time with someone who already knows me, no need to explain where I come from, what I'm doing, to run through my work history (that always seems to occur for some reason), we could talk about people we BOTH knew. Such fun, such a nice change, fab night all round.
Wednesday, June 08, 2005
Sunday, June 05, 2005
This is a strange city surrounded on all sides by desert and mountains, it feels as though you are being held captive. It exists for the soul purpose of getting people drunk and extracting cash from them. It's brash and over the top , it's 'low-culture' at its best and it makes no apologies. You have to have an element of respect for the sheer nerve of the place. It's location, design, personality, leave you feeling disconnected from everywhere and everything else. There is no where calm for you to take a breather, no city parks with quiet shady corners, no independent coffee houses where you can read a paper surrounded by 'locals'. The place never rests nor does it allow you to. I'm glad I've been and I'm glad I left.
I'm pleased that I have spent the last week in hostels. Being surrounded by people doing similar things to me, exchanging stories, ideas and advice has made me feel, finally, like a 'traveller'. I'm starting to not only understand but to 'feel' what I am doing. Occassionally changing my plans, even if its just a tweak here or there, is exciting. There are so many possibilities and so much yet to come. Exchanging e-mail addresses, talkng about meetin up elsewhere in the US or back at home, recommending hostels, discovering that you've met the same people, it all means that threads from your own trip are being taken up by others, and that our adventures won't end, not even once we arrive back home.
I got the bus to the far end of the Strip and walked back, it took me most of the day. The city has a very different feel once the sun is up, but is no less impressive. This time I made my way into some of the hotel lobbies, thousands of slot machines blink away furiously, dancing fountains, immaculately laid out flower gardens, huge shopping malls, indoor rain, white tigers pacing, bored, behind glass. Everywhere you turn alcohol is available - get them drunk and they'll spend more. Couples are led out of wedding chapels by Elvis, couples getting married in their car at the drive thru, huge numbers of people in motorised chairs (many of whom, I'm convinced, are in there simply because they are too big to walk long distances !). huge lakes, the water by its mere presenc having a welcome cooling effect. The heat was in danger of becoming unbearable, it was nice to go inside and cool down regularly. I couldn't find a bookshop anywhere (that speaks volumes - ha ha ha !!), and sadly tickets to see shows were well out of my budget.
The drive to Las Vegas was quite impressive, the dry, rocky desert is strangely appealing to me. We drove through mountains and then swooped down into Las Vegas, the bizarre island of a city seemingly stranded in the middle of nowhere.
I arrived in the late afternoon but was unable to make contact with my host. After a couple of hours of sitting at the Greyhound station and trying to call her every 30 minutes or so I gave up and booked into a hostel on Fremont street. Although in a grotty area its clean, the spacious rooms are on 3 floors that surround a swimming pool and hot tub. I ate, made myself at home and once it had gone dark I walked down the strip.
Las Vegas is like Blackpool, put in a jar, steroids and speed added to it and then shaken up. It's a bizarre place, devoid of all reality, it's like Disneyland for adults ! however a part of me can understand the attraction. It really is impressive, each casino/hotal attempts to outdo the other with light shows, performances, music. Outside Treasure Island the spectacular battle between huge pirate ships took place, pyrotechnics drawing huge crowds. The Mirage had impressive waterfalls that eventually 'erupted' as the volcano came alive, spitting out flames. Newly married couples walked down the street, bottles of beer in their hands. Children up way past their bed time, stared wide eyed, or were asleep in their push chairs. People took gondola rides outside the Venetian, rollercoasters screeched over head and the flashing cameras went on and on like never ending lightening. I got back to the hostel hot and sticky (the heat was beyond anything I had experienced at that time of night) and extremely foot sore .............
Treasure Island - Las vegas
This welcomed in my first night in Las Vegas. My Peter Pan side got to come out and play !!!
Saturday, June 04, 2005
Today was spent in the company of Bill. He had offered to show me some of the lakes and the new adventurous Kate (!) isn't the type to turn down such offers. He took me for breakfast and then surprised me by suggesting that we take a canoe out on Lake marshall (accompanied by his extremely handsome Golden Retriever - Zeek the Mountain Dog). With magnificent views all around us we did manage to get out on the water, sadly incredibly strong winds swept us onto a small island. We carried the canoe over and set off to the other side of the lake that the wind was blowing us towards ! Another canoe on the lake was capsized by the strong gusts so our caution was justified. It was short but sweet ! We returned the canoe and drove around Lake Mary and Lake Mormon, Bill telling me the history of the area and talkng about his hunting and fishing exploits. We spent some time walking around Lake Perry, a beautiful spot. Zeek went swimming, I took photos and Bill scouted a possible location for duck shooting.
The next 'adventure' was unexpected. For the first time in my life I used a gun !! A small handgun, the Baretta Tomcat is the same gun used by James Bond ! I fired off a couple of rounds at a battered steel drum, Bill is a qualified fire arms instructor so I knew I was in safe hands. I hate to say it but it was kind of fun. I would never hunt and would never allow anyone to kill infront of me, nor do I have any desire to make a habit of this activity, however I'm very glad I had the opportunity to give it a go.
Me in the Canyon, with very orange feet !
Believe it or not I was IN the Canyon, its so big it's hard to make any kind of a dent in it !!!!
Cathedral Rocks
And another .......... the formation on the right is meant to be a mother and her two childern trapped in the rocks, the father is just out of the shot !!!
View from Cathedral Rocks
This is a segment of what was waiting for me when I reached the top. No photo can capture the spirit of what I saw.
I joined a hostel tour to Sedona and had one of the best days of my entire tour. We drove down the beautiful Oak Creek Canyon to the town of Sedona. We stocked up on food for lunch and then trekked to Devils Bridge. It's exactly that - a bridge - formed by erosion and the effects of ice. With extraordinary views and wonderful photographic opportunities I was in my element. We hung out for a little while, walking over the bridge, gasping in awe at the surroundings and being told the story of its formation by our guide, Michael. A warm, funny, chatty guy, Michael is also a wilderness expert. He told us about the various plants, demonstrated how to make rope from a particular cactus. We learnt which plant tequila comes from, handy but we weren't going to try ! We were a group of five visitors, four from the UK, one from Slovakia, we all had a similar sense of humour and the day was spent laughing and saying "wow" a lot !!!
We ate lunch overlooking Sedona and then moved on for the part that was the highlight.
Beautiful red sandstone pillars form Cathedral Rocks. In the scorching heat we climbed and scrambled up the rocky approach trail. It was so enjoyable and there are so many people in my life, back in the UK and here in the States, that I wish could have been there with me. With intermittant breaks in the shade and stops to pour water over our heads, we made our way up. Nothing had prepared me for the view or just how amazing it would feel to be so close to the rocks themselves. We were right at the base of the rocks and myself and a couple of the others took the chance to scramble around and at one point perch on an outcrop (vertigo sufferers - don't even think about it - even I didn't get up off my bottom !!) I didn't want to leave. I sat on the edge with a grin from ear to ear, but knowing that no matter how many pictures I took they would never capture the full beauty of the view or just how amazing I felt up there. I kept snapping though !!! The spot is enough to make me want to return to Northern Arizona and spend a couple of weeks hiking in the area. I reluctantly left the ledge I was perched on, but giggled and chatted all the way back to the van. We drove back to Sedona to end our day with beer and ice cream on a patio that overlooked Snoopy Rock. Fabulous.
Thursday, June 02, 2005
I'm still alive !!!!
I know, I know, I'm behind on my blogging - sorry, but I'm busy gambling away my inheritance. Only kidding, no gambling and no inheritance that I know of !!!!! Anyhoo, this was taken at Cathedral Rocks, Northern Arizona. When I do blog you'll discover this was one of the highlights of my trip.